Ahoy, mateys! Captain Cassie here, former landlubber of Sydney‘s Inner West. My partner and I have grown weary of the familiar sights (and tastes) of our lives on land, so we’ve set forth on an epic sea voyage. Together we’ll sail to the far-off ports of Sydney’s Eastern and Northern Suburbs, searching for treasure and sampling exotic local delicacies along the way…
OK, so we’re not really brave buccaneers. But we are embarking on a tour of some of Sydney’s most iconic suburbs, so it’s hard to contain our excitement. The fact we get to do most of our exploring by ferry is just the icing on a delicious gourmet cake.
I’m on a boat!
Our journey begins at Circular Quay, where we board the good ship Scarborough (a First Fleet Class Sydney Ferry of great repute). So hoist the colours and batten down the hatches! Our first stop is…
Double Bay
Elegant and sophisticated, Double Bay is where European style meets Sydney waterfront living. As this is our first visit (and we’re still getting our land legs back), Mr LML and I find our way using an Urban Walkabout map. Following its advice, we stroll up Bay Street and turn into Cross Street, where we find a symbol of true, eternal love:
True love in Double Bay
A card on Mr Dog’s wrist tells us they can be purchased from the Frances Keevil Gallery. I mutter something about nipping off for a spot of shopping, but Mr LML suggests we look for more portable booty. A few doors down we find Papier D’Amour, a store that seems to have been designed with me in mind. Giant flamingo pool floats, tiny fox slippers, bags that look like toucans – I want them all!
Papier D’Amour, Double Bay
Next we discover Silver Plume Gallery, and talk about finding treasure! I’m a fiend for silver jewellery (the chunkier the better), so instantly fall in love with an entire shelf of rings. Shop owner Vickie explains how she imports direct from Native American artists, and we admire the fusion of traditional elements with modern design.
Silver Plume Gallery, Double Bay
Luckily we have a lunchtime reservation to save me from buying all the things. We make our goodbyes, then head off to Mrs Sippy.
Mrs Sippy, Double Bay
Mrs Sippy is a colourful exception to that “European style” I mentioned earlier. Its breezy summer courtyard and bright geometric murals give it a California feel, which is A-OK by us.
The fun extends to the menu, which combines shareable and one-person-scoffable dishes. Mr LML and I share the smoked chicken, walnut, nashi pear and aioli salad, the tiger prawns, green papaya, avocado and nam jim salad, and a couple of freshly shucked oysters with sauce mignonette (all washed down with a Simon Gilbert Pinot Grigio, which comes to us from Orange). I conveniently forget that Mr LML isn’t a fan of oysters – guess I’ll just have to eat both!
Mr LML: “Can I eat now?” Me: “No!” *Takes more photos*
Everything’s delicious, especially the chicken salad (which we both agree is our favourite). We almost drop anchor and stay all day, but we can feel the sea calling. We grab a land-raft (aka taxi) and make our way to…
Watsons Bay
Once a small fishing village, Watsons Bay is now a prestige suburb that’s home to the original Doyles seafood restaurant. We’re technically just passing through on the way to our next ferry, but I can’t resist introducing Mr LML to one of my favourite spots – The Gap. Behold, one of Sydney’s most spectacular views:
The Gap, Watsons Bay
We also spend some time reading the graffiti on the rocks. I wonder if Arthur and Katie are still together?
Arthur and Katie, where are you now?
Having put in at least ten minutes of walking, Mr LML and I decide we deserve a drink. We stroll to the nearby Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel and take a corner table in the pub. It’s got an old-school nautical style that really suits our current mood – yarr!
Cassie the salty sea dog (with her lemon, lime and bitters)
With our batteries recharged, it’s time to set course for our final port. We hop on a Manly Fast Ferry and head for…
Manly
Yo, readers, I’m really happy you’re enjoying this post and Imma let you finish, but the Manly Fast Ferry is one of the best boat rides of all time. There’s always a few waves between Sydney Harbour and the Heads, and the Fast Ferry bounces over them like an amusement park ride (and you know I love those). So I’m sorry to interrupt the narrative flow, but you REALLY need to add the Fast Ferry to your Sydney to-do list.
OK, back to Manly. Amid the familiar sights of foamy waves and Norfolk Pines, Mr LML and I notice a kind of festival vibe in the air. Turns out it’s the Australian Open of Surfing, so we wander over to the beach to take a look.
Australian Open of Surfing, Manly
We don’t see any surfing, but we do catch part of the F45 Playoffs. Apparently it’s the ultimate fitness test, so I’m shocked that I wasn’t asked to compete. I assume the invitation was sent to my land address after I went to sea.
The F45 Playoffs. Don’t worry, I’ve got this.
Not wanting to embarrass the official competitors with my superhuman fitness, we move on and explore the local shops. Our favourite is Desire Books, a cosy, old-fashioned place full of preloved books, weathered leather armchairs and retro typewriters. Desire hosts writers groups, open mic nights, tarot readings and more, and we make a mental note to come back.
Desire Books, Manly
I buy a set of Literary Moustache badges, which counts as my “booty” for the day. Now we’re on the hunt for rum! Donny’s Bar in funky Market Lane looks like just the place for it, but we change our minds the instant we read the cocktail menu. A martini made with blueberry, vanilla, lemon, and Persian fairy floss?! I actually squeal with excitement.
Fairy Floss Martini and Brunswick Cooler – Donny’s Bar
The martini looks gorgeous and tastes even better, which makes me so happy I forget how to take a decent photo. Mr LML’s Brunswick Cooler (with Beefeater gin, ginger syrup, lemon sorbet, coriander tincture, and summer fruits) is also fantastic, but my martini definitely wins.
Next up is dinner at Daniel San, a treat we’ve been looking forward to all day. Plating up Japanese street food in a neon rock’n’roll setting, it’s a taste of Shibuya on the shores of Manly Beach.
Daniel San, Manly
Not surprisingly the place is packed, but our dishes quickly arrive at our table. We start with the seared beef carpaccio and scallop sashimi, and all I can say is WOW. I especially love the scallops – the delicate texture paired with zesty Japanese citrus snow is amazing.
Seared beef carpaccio and a bottle of Tyrrells Brookdale Semillon
Scallop sashimi with Japanese citrus snow and crunchy dried miso
For the main event we have the Deluxe Sashimi Boat (obviously!), and it’s seriously beautiful. The sail and rudder move! Like our entrees, the sashimi, ginger and wasabi are all incredibly fresh, and we love mixing the different flavours to find the perfect balance of sweet and spicy.
Captain LML and Daniel San’s Deluxe Sashimi Boat
Top it all off with a bottle of Tyrrells Brookdale Semillon (straight from the Hunter Valley) and it’s hard to think of a better end to our Sydney seafaring adventure. So with bellies full of sushi and a memory card full of photos we waddle back to the ferry and set sail for home.
Cassie travelled on behalf of Destination NSW.
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