MUNICH with my friend, the Countess

My friend Kate recently married a German Count.  No biggie.

Well, OK.  So she is technically a COUNTESS now – but she’s still a cheeky, down to earth, Aussie chick at heart.

Case in point: when I visited Kate recently in Munich, she asked me to bring two things from home: a jar of Vegemite and some Glad Wrap (apparently the German cling wrap is so terrible, it gives Kate high blood pressure whenever she tries to use it).

One of the things Kate loves about her adopted hometown of Munich, other than the ability to travel quickly and easily to a whole range of fabulous European cities (Florence one weekend, Paris the next…) is the fact that Muenchens are really proud of their culture and traditions.  The largest and most famous tradition is of course Oktoberfest – when more than 16 million people visit the city to drink beer and party.  But there’s more to this city than just dirty big beer halls and men in lederhosen.  I got to see the “real” Munich through (Countess) Kate’s eyes.

Where to STAY:

ADAGIO APARTHOTEL MUNCHEN – The location is absolutely perfect – it’s just a five minute walk to the central train station and an easy 10 minute stroll into the centre of Munich and all the main attractions, shopping etc.

The hotel provides large, clean rooms – more like small apartments than hotel rooms. The rooms are equipped with a small kitchen, if you can be bothered cooking.  The staff are polite and incredibly helpful with really good English.  Nothing was too much trouble- I asked for a quiet room and I was given a room at the back of the hotel, where I slept like a baby.  I forgot my European power adaptor but luckily, they were able to sell me one right there at reception.

The three things I really loved about this hotel …

1. The décor is modern and simple – no clutter (love!)
2. The Wi-Fi is free and works well throughout the hotel (bonus!)
3. The water pressure in the shower is amazing and they have REAL hairdryers – not those ridiculous little hang on the wall ones that feel like they couldn’t even blow out a candle (made this girl very happy!)

Where to EAT:

CAFÉ REITSCHULE – The name literally translates to the “Riding School café” and as it suggests is located in an Equestrian centre, so you can peer through large windows over the arena and watch people riding horses while you eat.

The food is fabulous for brunch or lunch – with a hearty vegan menu also available.  There is a faint whiff of hay when you visit the toilets, but otherwise, it’s a unique and pleasant experience.  It’s very much a local haunt – the waiter’s English is limited and the menu will require translation.

CAFÉ LUITPOLD – It’s common for Muenchens to meet with friends for a short break of coffee and cake between 3-5pm.

This is one of Kate’s favourite spots for “Kaffen & Kuchen” and I have to say, the Apple Strudel is food-gasmic.   It’s not a tourist trap and I get the feeling that my waiter is less than impressed when he discovers I’m not a local.

BEIM SEDLMAYR – You won’t find many tourists here- this place is loved by locals for it’s honest German food.  This is THE spot in Munich if you want to try Sausages and Sauerkraut and Spatzle (noodles) and a whole host of other typical Bavarian home-style specialties.

BURGER & LOBSTER BANK – This is a hot new restaurant and the place for locals to see and be seen.  It sounds like a casual burger joint but it’s actually an upmarket, stylish restaurant hidden away in a laneway off the main drag of Munich.  It’s all men in business suits and ladies in fur and the food is 5 star.  I’m still dreaming about my Ramen Vegetarian Burger.

The Peppers with Parmesan were “more-ish” and you’d be silly to go anywhere else in Munich for Lobster.

Where to DRINK:

SCHUMANN’S BAR – A Munich institution, this cocktail bar is a popular late night venue.  Uber cool and a well heeled crowd, the bartenders actually wear what look like lab coats and take their cocktail making very seriously.  Again – this is strictly a local crowd.

BLUE BAR, BAYRISHER HOF – A chic rooftop bar at the Hayerischer Hof, with panoramic views over Munich.  The perfect sunset spot.

Where to SEE SOMETHING SPECIAL:

MARIENPLATZ: The Munich “must do”, this large plaza in the centre of the city, is surrounded by stunning historic buildings, including the Old City Hall, the New City Hall (it’s only 100 years old!), the Church of St Peter and it’s old clock tower, where you must climb the 206 steps to the top for panoramic views of the city.

The Marienplatz is also home to the Vikualienmarkt, a daily outdoor farmers market in the centre of the city, with more than 100 stalls offering fresh food, fruit, flowers, exotic game, cheeses, spices etc.

Where to SHOP:

The city centre will keep even the most energetic shopaholic busy for days.  Stroll along Kaufingerstrasse, Neuhauserstrasse, Sendlingerstrasse,  Theatinerstrasse and the Funf Hofe arcade – and you’ll find all the big European retailers (Zara, H&M, Mango etc) and plenty of local brands.  I was pleasantly surprised to find one of my favourite Italian brands, Stefanel (with a 50% off sale … kaching!!)

Munich boasts some pretty fab department stores as well. The most famous is the “store of the senses” ‘ludwig Beck’ but one of Countess Kate’s favourites is ‘Lodenfrey’ – it’s like David Jones on steroids .

For the really expensive boutiques, head to the more exclusive Maximillianstrasse and you’ll see why Munich is also known as “Italy’s most northern city”.   The Bavarian Parliament, the National Theater and the Bavarian State Opera are all nearby, with plenty of classic architecture to admire as well.

 Where to BE A TOURIST:

SEGWAY TOUR: Kate says this is a must for anyone visiting Munich in the Summer months.  You’ll see the best of the best sightseeing hotspots in a small group with some funny, interesting and well informed tour guides.

THE HOFBRAUHAUS  – Ok if you have to do it, visit the Hofbrauhaus for a bucket of beer, oversized pretzels and the Oompa band.  They call themselves the most famous pub in the world, but be warned: the only locals here are the staff.

HOP ON HOP OFF BUS – A great way to see all the city’s major sights in half a day – including Olympic Park, the BMW museum, the Palace of Nymphenburg with the Royal Gardens, the Max-Joseph-Platz and the Opera House.

There you have it- Munich like a local. Got any more tips to share?

• Book a stay at the Adagio Munich
• All Munich Hotels
• Fly to Germany