I have a confession to make. I’m more than a little bit partial to a degustation menu. As an indecisive diner who loves food but hates food envy, sampling the very best of what a restaurant menu has to offer is dining at its best.
Throw in matching wines and it’s a match made in gourmet heaven. What’s not to love? No agonising over the menu, just trusting the kitchen and sommelier to deliver the goods.
Thankfully when you place your trust in chef and co-owner Paul Cooper and his team at Bishop Sessa in Surry Hills you’re onto a very good thing. The degustation on offer is a six course affair, $65 per person or $110 with matching wines (we went there, it would be rude not to).
Settling into our table, tucked away in the corner and ideal for a date night, we’re quickly presented with our first beverage, a San Miranda Prosecco NV from King Valley in Victoria. Sparkling is always a winner with me and this hits the spot beautifully.
Course one is a Quail & ginger steamed bun with hoi sin sauce. Having tried the famous Momofuko steamed buns in NYC, these don’t quite fall into that lofty category but they are fluffy and flavoursome in their own right and I’d certainly order them again.
Next out is a super light Scallop ceviche with cucumber, avocado and a ginger beer sorbet. I love the addition of the sorbet – it’s very refreshing, albeit a little summery on a coolish Autumn evening. Served with a glass of Marques de Tezona Macabeo from Spain, we’re informed that in Australia wines such as this are often criticised for being too light but in Spain they’re very popular and I have to agree with the sommelier that it works well with this course.
Two wines down, I’m ready for the next dish to be a little more substantial. The corned pork &poached banana prawn salad, corn, bisque dressing and lemon verbena crackling steps things up a notch with the unique flavour combinations. It’s matched with a Medhurst Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley. One sip and I can see why lastminute lovely Sasha spoke so highly of the wines on offer there.
When a fancy degustation features the words ‘sausage roll’, you’re bound to be intrigued. Read on to see it also involves duck and your mouth is set to water. The Roasted Aylesbury duck breast with duck leg sausage roll, baby carrots and an onion and orange marmalade is highlight so far for me (and Mr LML’s dish of the night). The duck breast is cooked to perfection and combined with the sausage roll and marmalade, it’s comfort food at its best. Moving into reds but once again keeping the wine local, it’s accompanied by an O’Leary Walker Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir.
Next up is the Potato wrapped smoked red wine braised Wagyu, duck fat roasted parsnips and pine mushrooms. Just when you thought the meal had hit its peak with the duck course, the melt in your mouth Wagyu is perfection and let’s face it, duck fat roasted anything is going to be a winner. Another Spanish wine accompanies this dish, this time a 2010 Picante Tempranillo Shiraz.
After five savoury courses (plus house-made sourdough with olive oil because what every six course meal needs is extra carbs ;)) I’m ready for my sweet hit.
Chocolate-chip parfait with chocolate mousse, marshmallow and caramelised popcorn is the triumphant finale with every component made in house. The salty sweet popcorn combined with the rich chocolate is a dessert lover’s heaven. It’s accompanied by a sweet sherry from Spain which we’re told people either love or hate. Thankfully I’m in the love category.
While the likes of Quay, Tetsuyas and Aria are well known for their amazing degustations, Bishop Sessa proves you don’t need to go to a’ hatted’ restaurant to have a marathon meal to remember.
Book your own meal at Bishop Sessa with lastminute.com.au new restaurant service here
