Hunter Valley How-To Guide

The Hunter Valley is one of those getaways that as a Sydneysider, Mr LML and I mean to do each year but other trips just seem to jump the queue.
So when we returned from Bali and didn’t have any holidays booked (a rare scenario!), a lastminute.com.au hotel sale was enough to have me whipping out the credit card faster than you could say Sémillon.

Just two hours north of Sydney (M1 traffic pending), the Hunter is far enough away from the city for fresh country air but close enough that you’re there before you know it.

It’s a region that packs a punch so if you haven’t got time to do your research before you hit the road, my tips might just help you make the most of your weekend getaway:
How to… do the wineries
It’s fair to say getting your wine on is the number one drawcard of the Hunter. There are over 150 wineries here so it pays to pick out a few that are on your hit list then be spontaneous and drop into other cellar doors as you feel inspired. Be sure to try the local wines when you eat out, take note of any you enjoy and add these wineries to your must-visits too.
A few of my favourites to get you started:
Brokenwood
One of the busiest but easily one of the best. The friendly team at Brokenwood make sampling a pleasure and every single drop we try is a winner. The only challenge? Having the patience to keep some of the beauties we bought long enough for them to reach their potential!
David Hook Wines
The only cellar door we visit that charges for tastings if you don’t purchase anything ($5 per person for five wines of your choice), we were unlikely to ever walk away from this Hunter institution without a bottle or two.
With Shiraz featuring prominently in our boot already, a bottle each of two unique varietals: the Hunter Valley 2012 Barbera and the Central Ranges 2010 De Novo Bianco add a little more diversity to our weekend collection.
Peterson’s House
Formerly known as Champagne House, Peterson’s is a must visit for bubbly fans. Reds, whites and even desserts are given the sparkling treatment. My pick of the bunch: the 2010 Blanc de Blanc.

Hot tip: The onsite Restaurant Cuvee does a popular champagne breakfast for the perfect start to your day.

Meerea Park
Situated in the modern Tempus Two complex (featuring a number of ‘cellar doors’ and food outlets), what Meerea Park lacks in authentic vineyard cellar door vibe, it makes up for in flavour. The Aunts 2011 Shiraz is a winner.
How to… eat out
There are soooo many restaurants to choose from that it can be a little overwhelming, especially with many sitting firmly in the ‘splash out’ category. These are my favourites:

Bistro Molines
Located in Mount View, around 20 minutes drive from the centre of the action in Polkobin, it’s worth going a little out of your way to visit this Hunter gem.
Without overstating it, this is one of the best meals I’ve had in a long time anywhere, not just the Hunter. And that view is just spectacular. Who needs Tuscany when you’ve got this in your own backyard? It’s no coincidence Sally and Robert Molines are legends of the region!

Bistro Molines offers one of those menus that you want to order one of everything. Confident that there are no bad choices, we opt for the Charcuterie of Duck Liver Pate, Pork Brawn, Terrine de Campagne with Pickled Vegetables and Melba Toast; and the Crisp Zucchini Flowers with Goats Cheese, Frisee Salade and Tomato Ailo for entrée.
Mains see us finally settle on the Twice Roasted Hunter Duckling with Braised Cabbage and Orange Glaze; and the Fillet of Veal wrapped in Prosciutto with Roasted Artichokes, Cavolo Nero, Champignon Sauce and Parmesan (the dish of the day) with a side of pomme frites, of course).
And the dessert stomach is activated for a special of Apple Crumble with Ginger Ice-Cream; and the Yoghurt Panacotta with Passionfruit Jelly, Fresh Berries and Meringue. It is want-to-lick the plate delicious!
Service is friendly and helpful and the restaurant is buzzing. I’d plan a trip around returning here alone. It’s that good.
Enzo
It’s all about the breakfast at Enzo . Mr LML and I sample their breakfast boards (him the ham version, me the vego option) and return the next day for the big breakfast (which unlike a lot of other so-called big brekkies, definitely lives up to the name).

The Tiny Teddies served with your tea and coffee, kids’ books as coasters and jellybeans with your bill are all cute touches.

Hot tip: Book ahead or be prepared for a lesson in patience. It is worth the wait though if you do have to put your name down.

Emersons
We ummed and ahhed over whether to head here for breakfast, lunch or dinner (another one of those menus!) but the promise of a degustation dinner where we didn’t have to make any decisions was too good to pass up. Even if you’ve had a day of wining and dining (unless it was at Bistro Molines which had us completely full), don’t be put off by the thought of five courses at Emersons (located at Lovedale’s Adina Vineyards): they’re on the small side but full of flavour.

Every dish hits the spot but it’s the Pan Seared Snapper, Sweet Corn Veloute, Baby Fennel, Pickling Onions and Basil Juice; Slow Roasted Pork Belly, Crackling, Prunes, Apple Puree and Cavolo Nero Cream; and Chocolate Delice, Doughnut, Crumble and Chocolate Ice Cream I’m still raving about.
The Verandah
This is a bit of a surprise packet. It doesn’t look like much from the outside and on entering the restaurant, I’m still a little sceptical but the food at The Verandah has wow factor.
Sitting on the verandah itself, we soak up the vineyard vibe as we share items from their tapas style menu. The Wild Mushroom Brushetta with Thyme Infused Goats Curd ; Tea Smoked Duck Breast with Orange and Honey Glazed Rosemary Cherries with Pistachio Soufflé; Seared Tuna with Peach and Chilli Sorbet; and Pulled and Pressed Lamb with Potato Rosti and Gremolata all exceed expectations.

How to … do things that don’t involve wine
This might be controversial in wine country but if you’re driving, there are only so many wineries and vinos at lunch you can enjoy before you reach the limit. Luckily, there are plenty of other things to keep you busy.
Visit the Chocolate Shop
With three locations (one conveniently next to Peterson’s House), the Hunter Valley Chocolate Company is the stuff of chocoholic dreams. Having sampled some of their goodies (in the name of research of course), I can confirm these delicacies are the goods and well worth indulging in. Did someone say coconut rough?!

Stock up on cheese
The Smelly Cheese Shop has everything you could possibly want for a cheese platter to impress. With two locations – one in the Tempus Two complex and another at the Polkobin Village – brave the crowds to taste test your favourites.
A lot of visitors to the Hunter go out for dinner one night and stay in to self-cater on their second night. And by self-cater, we all know that really means wine and cheese.

Take to the skies
Hot air ballooning is the perfect way to take in the sights of the region from a unique angle. Make sure you have a wake-up call for the early start though!
Get a(nother) sweet hit
Save your chocolate shop supplies for later and get your sugar high at the Sabor in the Hunter Dessert Bar in Lovedale. Chocolate options dominate the menu with waffles, scones and their award winning mousse also up for grabs. Choose to eat-in or take-away.
And of course there are also day spas, golf courses and the popular the Hunter Valley Gardens to keep you busy.
How to… decide where to stay
With a huge amount of accommodation to choose from, we let the deals do the deciding and snapped up a sale offer at Peppers Guest House in Polkobin.
We didn’t realise until we checked out that they’d actually put us in a lower room type (I would have really liked to take advantage of the balcony and bath in our Vintage Deluxe room!). Learn from our mistake and always double check on check-in that you’re being put in the right room. Our Vintage room was simple: king bed, tastefully decorated room, flat screen TV and opening windows (always a bonus).
It has that posh country manor vibe and a great location: walking distance to both Enzo for brekkie and David Hooks cellar door and a few minutes drive from many wineries and restaurants.
Gourmet food, fine wine, country air and a convenient location to call home for a day or two: all the ingredients of a perfect weekend escape.
Have you been to the Hunter Valley? Where are your favourite spots to eat, drink and stay?
NSW is on sale now! Book a hotel from $99 per night here.